mb
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by mb on Mar 4, 2008 22:10:19 GMT
Hello all,
I've been making a few things for around the house for about a year now and have been persuaded to make wardrobes for our bedroom.
My wife is looking me to make built-in wardrobes for our bedroom. The ceiling height is 2.4m and we want the doors to go to near that height (with a little gap at the top). I don't mind painting and seeing what can be done with eggshell on MDF that's what we want for the carcass and doors. Before I buy cutters for the router is a 19mm thick rail and stile and a 19mm thick panel going to be too heavy for that height of door. I'm sure plenty of hinges will keep the door on the side of the wardrobe but I'm thinking it might sag. I was thinking of a width of about 50cms.
Many thanks,
Michael
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Post by engineerone on Mar 4, 2008 22:34:42 GMT
i would go for thinner panels, not least to ensure that the doors are not too heavy. use moisture resistant mdf (the green one) for the rails and stiles, not sure if you can get it for 6 or 9 mm thick stuff. personally i think unless you have 3 panels the door will look in wind. paul
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Post by mooretoolsplease on Mar 4, 2008 22:43:54 GMT
I've never been a fan of using MDF for the rails and stiles on a wardrobe/cupboard door. Personally I use tulip wood, its cheap as chips, machines well and takes paint great. I made some doors 2.2m tall a while ago with an 18mm panel and it was fine, one was 600mm wide.
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Post by Dave S on Mar 5, 2008 10:21:08 GMT
Michael, I suggest you have a look at this thread where I asked very similar questions in December. MDF can successfully be used for rails and stiles - JasonB for one has used it. I'm following his construction method, using a loose tongue to join rail and stile. I'm using 22mm rails/stiles and 12mm raised panels. My progress has been slow - I've just about finished machining and the glue up is next. I see this as the trickiest part since it needs to be done dead flat - something worth thinking about in advance. Many people here have recommended using the green moisture resistant mdf instead of the brown stuff from the diy sheds since it machines and takes paint much better. This is the first time I've used it and I'd definitely say it's worth it. The face frame is in place, painted with Dulux solvent-based eggshell and I'm pleased with how it has turned out. HTH Dave
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Post by lynx on Mar 5, 2008 10:48:31 GMT
Do you have any progress pics
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Post by jasonb on Mar 5, 2008 17:32:33 GMT
If you are planing to use profile & scribe cutters then I would go withh 22mm MR MDF as they give the door a bit more of a solid feel at that size. 6mm flat panels or raised out of 12mm will be more than adequate 19mm is a bit OTT unless you intend to raise both sides. Its also easier to sand the frames if the panel is below their level. I've just put in some units with c*ck beaded faceframes made in beech and 22mm doors/draws all painted in eggshell, will post some pics for Lynx in an hour or so. Edit now posted hereIn the mean time have a look at the painted stuff for Beth, Bill, Graham & Marie-ange in this album all made as above Jason
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mb
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by mb on Mar 5, 2008 17:45:16 GMT
Many thanks for the replies.
Would using 12mm MDF for a raised panel mean the raise is shallow as 6mm of the thickness will be going into the rail and stile groove. I'm just trying to imagine what it would look like.
Thanks for the tip for using tulipwood but I want to use sheet material as its all going to be the same thickness. I don't have a thicknesser. I made rail and stile doors from some type of softwood and a rebate bit and getting the thickness right took time and I still didn't get it right.
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Post by Dave S on Mar 5, 2008 21:43:31 GMT
Do you have any progress pics Hmm... I always get so wrapped up in what I'm doing (and as Paul, Engineerone mentioned in another thread, worrying about making mistakes) that I forget about taking pictures as I go along. I'll see what I can do at the weekend.
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Post by Dave S on Mar 5, 2008 21:45:10 GMT
Many thanks for the replies. Would using 12mm MDF for a raised panel mean the raise is shallow as 6mm of the thickness will be going into the rail and stile groove. I'm just trying to imagine what it would look like. Yes it will - I'll try to get some pics sorted out at the weekend so you can see what it looks like. Dave
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Post by Dave S on Mar 5, 2008 21:50:45 GMT
In the mean time have a look at the painted stuff for Beth, Bill, Graham & Marie-ange in this album all made as above Dangerous....it was my wife catching me looking at pictures of your breakfront wardrobe that led to 'can we have one like that in our bedroom?' !! Dave
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Post by sawdust on Mar 5, 2008 23:28:57 GMT
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Post by lynx on Mar 6, 2008 7:56:23 GMT
Jason, do you machine the bead into the face frames or mitre around after the frames are made up? Do you always use beech for the face frames?
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Post by jasonb on Mar 6, 2008 19:05:10 GMT
I had the 22mm finish size beech left from another job so used that, there is also a bit of maple in there to make up what was needed. If it was a bedroom then I would probably use tulip wood but its a bit to easily dented in a kitchen. I never run a c*ck bead on MDF as it snaps off too easily
I ran the bead into the horizontal rails with the spindle but the verticals were just square. Joined them together with a flat bottomed "V" then added mitred matching bead to the verticals, held together with glue and pocket screws. Fixed the FFs to carcases with biscuits and a few pocket screws where they don't show.
Jason
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