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Post by jfc on Nov 6, 2007 21:09:32 GMT
Two sheets of MDF for a template £20
1 day taking and making the template / running around . £200
Treated soft wood , whats the point as you are going to be cutting and sanding most of the treated timber away . Better to treat it after it's been made from good quality Softwood . 8x2 maybe ? Under £100 ?
1 day cutting and 1 day jointing and doweling/cleaning up £400
Whats that £720 , i guessed £800 as soon as i saw it .
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Post by engineerone on Nov 6, 2007 21:13:50 GMT
does it include the two rear supports and the floor plate?? in which case i would guess that jason is about another 100quid on the costs. so retail 1500 quid??? plus installation paul  |
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Post by dom on Nov 6, 2007 21:19:40 GMT
Never made anything like that but if they are 4 pieces of timber you'll need to find 4 boards of 20" by 7'.
If its all laminated then its going to take a while to make.
Plus I wouldn't like to make that in softwood
£1500.00 and that doesn't include installation.
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Post by paulchapman on Nov 6, 2007 21:22:53 GMT
Difficult to tell from the photograph, but it looks to me like it might be joined - if so they have used 8 pieces of wood. Cheers Paul |
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Post by jfc on Nov 6, 2007 21:25:03 GMT
Hmmmm i wasnt thinking , 450 wide might bump up the timber price but having done a door frame with an arched head i would be tempted to build it out of 8 parts to try and get away from the short / end grain joints .
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Post by dom on Nov 6, 2007 21:28:10 GMT
I think you'd need 20 parts 5 on each quadrant
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Post by andy on Nov 6, 2007 21:30:19 GMT
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Post by dom on Nov 6, 2007 21:33:17 GMT
Huh, I would have laminated them side on  |
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Post by dom on Nov 6, 2007 21:35:16 GMT
I think the client wants it like the picture, 4 pieces. How to you end up with 5 pieces per quarter. Dom your price is the closest to mine but still short. As I said I would have laminated them side on. So two half quadrants and then attach three one third quadrants to those to overlock. |
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Post by engineerone on Nov 6, 2007 23:12:27 GMT
how about marine ply laminations?  and if necessary, treated wood lipping rather like a bookshelf. certainly be easier to make. use west poly glues to hold it. paul |
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Post by engineerone on Nov 7, 2007 0:31:21 GMT
i guess i was thinking laterally, in the following way. treated wood would be almost impossible to buy in the width you need, so unless you join a number of pieces, and then you still have the problem of wastage, and also the need to re treat the cut edges and sides, at which point you wonder whether it will be as effective. then if you treat softwood yourself, again do you know about the longevity of the treatment. however, maybe you could make an armature of marine ply, and then cover that with a decent veneer, that you then coat with poly u . anyway it might be worth another look paul |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Nov 7, 2007 7:12:41 GMT
Looks like 4 pieces to me. It's a bit cosmetic with short design life - it'll rot from the base as it isn't weathered in any way, so preservative won't do much unless you soak the bottom ends thoroughly. The bridle joints would be slightly better the other way up so they weather better i.e. hold water less easily, but the bottom will rot first so it doesn't really matter.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by 9fingers on Nov 7, 2007 8:28:30 GMT
If the client really wants softwood then it should be possible to make the quadrants (by whatever means you choose) and then get the components pressure treated and finally cut the joints to join the quadrants apply preservative to the cut faces.
Bob
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Post by dantovey on Nov 7, 2007 18:16:27 GMT
I'm with Dom.
£1500 delivered.
You might get more on the soft South!
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pj
Junior Member
Posts: 88 
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Post by pj on Nov 8, 2007 11:00:02 GMT
Personally I have never had much success when joining treated softwood. I've used PVA and Poly but both just seem to sit on the surface and the joints fail when given a good wallop. I've resorted to both glue and screws when timber is treated, mind I've never used expoy.
I think a far better job if it is treated after making but you would need to factor in a cost for this or let the customer treat it themselves.
Philip
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Post by 9fingers on Nov 8, 2007 12:49:28 GMT
Personally I have never had much success when joining treated softwood. I've used PVA and Poly but both just seem to sit on the surface and the joints fail when given a good wallop. I've resorted to both glue and screws when timber is treated, mind I've never used expoy. I think a far better job if it is treated after making but you would need to factor in a cost for this or let the customer treat it themselves. Philip This is why I suggested pressure treating the major components and then joining them - what I did not make clear was that the joints to join the parts together would be cut after the treatment and would expose fresh surfaces. Poly glue should work well with the moisture content after treatment too. Bob |
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Post by Scrit on Nov 11, 2007 9:23:51 GMT
then if you treat softwood yourself, again do you know about the longevity of the treatment. There are some timber yards who have their own pressure treatment tanks and will treat pre-machined components for you. In this area the yard of choice for that is Geo. Hill in Oldham. The biggest problem is that once treated the timber would be all but impossible to glue or work as it remains sodden for quite some time so it would be necessary to find someone with a large enough tank. Raises the grain, too! An alternative might be to move to a more rot resistant softwood such as cedar in which case treatment would be superfluous Scrit |
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