Post by engineerone on Mar 4, 2008 16:28:21 GMT
well we are sloooooooowly getting there, after a range of
problems.
with the help of colin cott, i have resolved, but not yet instigated a method of holding the top on. just waiting to sort out some 21/2 old fashioned screws.
not sure whether i want the curves on the top support, or would prefer a mitred cut.
the drawer sides are thin cedar, and although smells nice, is a real pita to use in such a thin section, very fragile. need to stick the drawer front on, so first question how do you do it??
the drawer box has a top so it is difficult to get to the drawer that way. i understand about using double sided tape to hold the front on, but how do you get them properly fitted and square, the final fixing will be with a couple of screws. no knob on the drawer front, it will be really only a looking drawer, so will open by pulling on the narrow chamfer at the back.
i knocked the b thing over, and although it landed on the carpet tiles, still the glue shattered on a couple of joints. gave me the chance to re do a couple of things, not least the shelf slats at the bottom. the first ones were too short, and thin. so made them slightly thicker and longer. have to put dowels in the central 3 at each end. (and repair a mistake i made )
the 1st photo shows it with a lamp on top, as designed. only by chance had the wooden based lamp but looks quite decent.
then there is a photo showing it from the drawer end, another with from the other end, and finally the top again.
so what is left, drilling for the repair and dowelling,
fitting the drawer front, and then finally fixing the top with screws through the drawer box top, and into the top itself through the supports. i will slot the supports to allow movement.
not sure yet about the drawer falling out stop.
then all it needs is a final waxing.
so have i learnt any more
oak is actually a bugger to use, particularly in small sections.
chips and marks more easily than you would like. however when finally together looks pretty good and is quite strong.
cutting the dovetails by hand becomes easier, but still time consuming, and you really do need to ensure that you have support under which ever side you mark second, so that it stays square. since thin cedar is even more fragile, you need really sharp chisels, and it is actually sensible to cut out more of the dovetail with a coping or similar saw to ensure that you only have a small amount to chisel out.
although the rod was useful, i found that during making it, i could not always rely on it. particularly when i made the legs thinner than expected
next time i will cut the mortices whilst the legs are not tapered.
now have a sliding bevel to ensure the angles are right. guess work does not always look good, but it is amazing what you can hide.
as a part timer, it takes longer cause you are always worried about the mistakes, and you spend more time than is right trying not to make them.
paul
problems.
with the help of colin cott, i have resolved, but not yet instigated a method of holding the top on. just waiting to sort out some 21/2 old fashioned screws.
not sure whether i want the curves on the top support, or would prefer a mitred cut.
the drawer sides are thin cedar, and although smells nice, is a real pita to use in such a thin section, very fragile. need to stick the drawer front on, so first question how do you do it??
the drawer box has a top so it is difficult to get to the drawer that way. i understand about using double sided tape to hold the front on, but how do you get them properly fitted and square, the final fixing will be with a couple of screws. no knob on the drawer front, it will be really only a looking drawer, so will open by pulling on the narrow chamfer at the back.
i knocked the b thing over, and although it landed on the carpet tiles, still the glue shattered on a couple of joints. gave me the chance to re do a couple of things, not least the shelf slats at the bottom. the first ones were too short, and thin. so made them slightly thicker and longer. have to put dowels in the central 3 at each end. (and repair a mistake i made )
the 1st photo shows it with a lamp on top, as designed. only by chance had the wooden based lamp but looks quite decent.
then there is a photo showing it from the drawer end, another with from the other end, and finally the top again.
so what is left, drilling for the repair and dowelling,
fitting the drawer front, and then finally fixing the top with screws through the drawer box top, and into the top itself through the supports. i will slot the supports to allow movement.
not sure yet about the drawer falling out stop.
then all it needs is a final waxing.
so have i learnt any more
oak is actually a bugger to use, particularly in small sections.
chips and marks more easily than you would like. however when finally together looks pretty good and is quite strong.
cutting the dovetails by hand becomes easier, but still time consuming, and you really do need to ensure that you have support under which ever side you mark second, so that it stays square. since thin cedar is even more fragile, you need really sharp chisels, and it is actually sensible to cut out more of the dovetail with a coping or similar saw to ensure that you only have a small amount to chisel out.
although the rod was useful, i found that during making it, i could not always rely on it. particularly when i made the legs thinner than expected
next time i will cut the mortices whilst the legs are not tapered.
now have a sliding bevel to ensure the angles are right. guess work does not always look good, but it is amazing what you can hide.
as a part timer, it takes longer cause you are always worried about the mistakes, and you spend more time than is right trying not to make them.
paul