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Post by colincott on Mar 18, 2008 20:45:27 GMT
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Post by modernist on Mar 18, 2008 20:49:42 GMT
Nice doors - and the glass.
What's the question?
Brian
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Post by colincott on Mar 18, 2008 20:57:46 GMT
Some of the moulding   Right, now for the question  Has any one got somewhere to get the sunburst ( I have found somewhere at about £20 each ) plus the etched glass too. I could well be giving you a call about the mouldings Jason  I will have to see as Wealdendo this,which might well be close enough It would also save me on the running about. I was also thinking of putting in the rebate in after the moulding is made but doing the slot first for it. would this work if I when down this route as I would like them to last. Regards Colin |
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Post by colincott on Mar 18, 2008 21:07:05 GMT
Brian Give me a chance I have to finish getting the pics on first  |
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Post by cnc paul on Mar 18, 2008 21:10:44 GMT
Colin,
Try to keep the moulding and the rebate ther same depth.......It makes it easier not having long and short shoulders. ;D
Paul
You could try Phillip Bradbury Glass in North London for the star bursts and the etching.
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Post by colincott on Mar 18, 2008 21:15:57 GMT
Hi cnc Paul I think Bradley was one of the places i found but I will have to look at the links that I found and saved They found the door in a skip and they or in a bad way as you can see light through one of the tenons  |
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Post by jfc on Mar 18, 2008 21:22:37 GMT
Colin you can buy the glazing bars off the shelf , trying to make them with a router is a nightmare . I can always run off your sections for you on the spindle if you want and rebate them or you can come and do it but then you will want a spindle moulder and your wife will hate me for showing you the slope ;D
The etched glass just looks like a pilkington standard etching.
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Post by modernist on Mar 18, 2008 21:30:41 GMT
Sorry Colin  Can't help on the glass but it looks as though the centre rail is considerably deeper than the bottom rail. It might be the angle of the pic or the doors may have been shortened. Personally I think they look better graduated thinner from bottom to top and better still if the stiles are gunstocked at the centre rail Scottish style.  French doors look really good with the centre rail low and long glass. I'm going to go full Scottish on my next set and have radiussed corners as well. Sorry to be so OTT it is a subject close to my heart. Brian |
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Post by jfc on Mar 18, 2008 21:40:31 GMT
I saw that but i think its the beading throwing the eye out .
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Post by colincott on Mar 19, 2008 0:26:47 GMT
Brian Not a problem as I was gessing I know what you mean about subject close to the heart ( dont get me started on Alan Heard's Restoring program  , he could not have got a job in any of the places I have worked in ). sorry about the pic's as I have turned them in Photobucket but thm have not done it here  Are you both talking about the bad step on the stile and rail because if you are There is one but it is where they have done the moulding for the top and stopped it under the rail, for some reason it comes out like that but mine will not ( if I get the job that is but they have to be done by someone ). Jason I know you can get stock moulding almost the ssame but this has a longer and flatter half round on it, plus the glazing bar are only 15-16 mm thick and I am sure the stock stuff is thicker. It would not look the same and I did ask the customer about it and she wants it the same too. Do you get what I mean about doing it with the router ( doing it in two pieces ) as the cutters from Wealden are about right and yes Jason I do know it can be a pain, I dont have that much to do If I get them, I will have to see but I would like to know if doing it in two pieces would last PS Jason See it has the bead I was saying about down the middle and thanks for the offer |
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Post by colincott on Mar 19, 2008 0:28:50 GMT
You can see the step better on this pic   Brian Thanks for reminding me about the gunstocked stile but these doors dont change in thickness that much  |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Mar 19, 2008 12:55:00 GMT
They aren't gunstock stiles. They cheated instead by putting in that little step, in the last photo,
Lock rails are nearly always deeper than the others in trad doors. There's probably a good reason but I can't think what it would be. Maybe to hold the lock etc.
Chance of matching the moulding exactly would be about zero. Thats where DIY spindle cutters come in.
What about carefully pulling them apart and re-building? Not necessarily any cheaper but always looks best IMHO. The missing bar could be just a plain bevel if you can't match it. Sound unlikely but if you give it the same overall dimensions same 'footprint', bevels can be OK and be easily overlooked
P Bradbury good for glass and can copy pattern. Last time I bought some from him it was well worth a trip down the M1. Some funny colours, can't all be original.
nice doors
cheers
Jacob
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Post by colincott on Mar 19, 2008 13:10:04 GMT
Hi Jacob The step from what I could see was because when they did the moulding for the top of the door, it was taken to far and you now get the step the cover the moulded part. If I repaired the doors ( I could do and have done before, being a restorer ), the moulding I could match but the whole doors are in a real state and think new would be better. Plus I would like to make them If the moulding was not the same but close, I think she would be happy as long as it looked the same if you know what I mean. P Bradbury is the cheapest place I have found plus its not that far from me too ;D |
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Post by modernist on Mar 19, 2008 18:23:21 GMT
I hadn't noticed the step in the stiles. It seems as if they have just continued the glazing rebate to the bottom of the middle rail. Is it self moulded on the other side, or the same? I do think the lengthening of the upper panel is a good thing from the design point of view; was often done, and maybe this is a hint in that direction. Either wayu it is not too much aof a problem to repair/re-create.
Brian
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Post by colincott on Mar 19, 2008 18:32:28 GMT
Brian It would not be to hard to do but most of the glazing bars have the top missing ( not sure what the bit that stands up at the top of them )and it not in good nick. So I think making new is the best bet on this on and would be quicker I hope I have understood what you where on about Have to go now and train the kids  ( not mine by the way, well most of the time )  C ya |
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Post by andy king on Mar 20, 2008 10:22:59 GMT
Lock rails are nearly always deeper than the others in trad doors. There's probably a good reason but I can't think what it would be. Maybe to hold the lock etc. Jacob Yes, when I was at college I was taught that the reasoning for this was for the fitting of the old style horizontal locks where the lock and knob are in line horizontally. It allows the lock mortice to be drilled out centrally between the twin tenons without removing any of the tenon itself and thus weakening the door. Andy |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Mar 20, 2008 19:53:52 GMT
Nearly all old doors I've dealt with seem to have rim locks - in fact all of them come to think. I've never seen an old (100 years +) mortice lock but I'm sure the ingenious Victorians would have used them, probably public buildings and banks etc
Still wide lock rail with rim locks however; 12 to 15inches even.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by andy king on Mar 20, 2008 20:35:39 GMT
Nearly all old doors I've dealt with seem to have rim locks - in fact all of them come to think. cheers Jacob You need to get out a bit more and look at a classier style of door then! ;D Our local hospital was built around 1910 (shut by Thatcher in the 80's - another story ) There were hundreds of doors in there and most had the type of mortice lock I referred to. I should know, I was a joiner there for 7 years, making similar doors, and fitting those very same locks. Andy |
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Post by pitbull on Mar 22, 2008 15:26:48 GMT
I know you are replacing like for like, but will it be allowed, with this replacement doors and windows to be double glazed business, can you give the a self certificate
Suppliers must prove that their windows meet the minimum energy efficiency requirements of U2.0 for wooden and PVC-U frames, and U2.2 for aluminium frames as of April 2002.
If the retailer is not a member of a Self-Assessment Scheme or the householder is carrying out the work (DIY?) then they will be required to pay for the building regulations application - check with your local council for costs. The time taken to obtain approval will depend on the local authority concerned.
Its very important that all householders recognise the importance of conforming with these new regulations - its very likely that on any future sale of your property you will need to provide proof that you conformed with Doc L.
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Post by pitbull on Mar 22, 2008 15:35:38 GMT
Plus with the glass being less than 1500 of the floor level it will have to be toughened
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Mar 22, 2008 16:17:03 GMT
I'd just keep your head down and do it. Counts as restoration/repair anyway - which don't have to be up to regs even if you replace it completely as long as it's a good replica. Though the rules are not clear if it came to a dispute, which is extremely unlikely - and would be the clients responsibility.
As for house resale and proof - not having it is not going to make the slightest difference to any sensible buyer.
Whatever you do DON'T ask the BCO he just might be a stickler for the rules esp if he's a new boy or girl, though most of them are pretty sensible.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by colincott on Mar 22, 2008 17:31:57 GMT
Thanks Jacob and Pitbull
As that had not crossed my mind, as I dont do many windows or doors.
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Post by jfc on Mar 22, 2008 18:16:24 GMT
1500 mm from the floor Has that changed , it used to be 900 mm . |
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) and would like to pick your brains about some of it 
, he could not have got a job in any of the places I have worked in ).
