New Project Forthcoming :) Starting the Finish

[Lord Nibbo]

A close up of the mitred joints on the front face.



Starting on the back panel. The top rail is glued into place and the side pieces are ready to glue up, all have a dado/groove on the inside face for fitting the panels.



Gluing the side pieces on.



The unit now lying on it's front. The lower rail is only dry fitted so I could measure it up for the two middle pieces. The lower rail is made with floating tenons and the two middle pieces will be fixed on the same way.



Centre stiles cut with floating tenons and glued in place



Stiles dry fitted



Boards resawn for back panels to 1/2" thick



All the boards have been thicknessed and have had any sapwood cut off then they were edged and glued up for the three panels.

[Lord Nibbo]

The panels have been sized and fitted, that completes the back.

[Lord Nibbo]

View of the back paneling




Better view of the front




Doors glued up just need cutting to size. The grain will run Vertical when fitted.




To reduce warping should I reinforce the door as in version A or B?
Version A would be flush with the face and glued only in the centre with screws at the ends.
Version B would be inset 3/8" into the door but would stick out 3/8".
Or should I risk fixing the door with no reinforcement and hope it don't warp?

[Lord Nibbo]

Been out of the workshop with a bad back again but today managed to get out there again but all I managed to do was........
........
.... Drop a right b@llock I had sized to fit the two outer doors and proceeded to fit the barrel hinges, this type



I even made a jig to do it. So I drilled the two outer doors then the corresponding holes in the cabinet everything lined up perfectly well I got the first door on and two more of the hinges fitted in to the other door. It was at this point I went to open the door already fitted and it would only open about 30 degrees :oops: :oops: :oops: So for the next few hours were spent drilling out the hinges and boy they were tight :evil: So after re plugging the holes I'm back to where I was this morning and I've had to order a larger size set of hinges :cry:

[paulchapman]

lordnibbo said:

It was at this point I went to open the door already fitted and it would only open about 30 degrees :oops: :oops: :oops:

I had that trouble with that type of hinge once (the only time I've used them). Ordered the correct hinges according to the dimensions in the Woodfit catalogue, fitted them and the bl**dy doors wouldn't open Following that experience, I now tend to make a mock up when using unusual hinges, just to make sure they'll work OK.

Cheers

Paul

[Lord Nibbo]

I did think about trying one on some offcuts Paul, for all of about three seconds I should of tried it first, maybe then I wouldn't have wasted the whole day.

[Lord Nibbo]

I've just noticed that I missed out making the doors but I do have one pic of one of the doors having the stengthening boards fitted or rather the rebate being cut.
----------------------------------------------------

Not quite done as in the sketchup drawing, I decided to rebate right to the edge and make the boards to be fitted a little bigger, this will hopefully help stop/reduce the door from warping.
It may look at first glance that I used the LN rebate plane but the truth is I did the major work with my table router, I'm only cleaning up the faces with the plane. The rebate to the left is as it came off the router table. The rebate to the right is nearly finished.

[Lord Nibbo]

Both the left and right doors fitted. The centre door seen on the top as yet to be sized.



A close look at the barrel hinge fittings if you look closely above the top hinge and below the lower hinge you can see where I have had to plug the cockup of using too small a hinge, I decided to move them rather than trying to redrill where the plug was as I feel the doors would be weekened using the same hole position.
The door strengthening is only glued about half the length, it is screwed at the hinge end to allow movement in this cross grain situation.

[Lord Nibbo]

Well all the woodwork is nearly done.....

The centre drop down door is positioned but the hinges have still to be fitted. Although I can get a sheet of paper around the sides and top of the centre door I may shave a little more off it just in case it swells a little.
The three blocks in front are what will become the handles.





Once the door is fitted I shall sand it down I may give it a coat of cellulose sanding sealer before fitting the handles.

[Lord Nibbo]

The centre drop down door is now fitted, but working out the geometry on those stays wasn't easy. If they were ordinary stays it would have been simple but these are sprung loaded so when you close the door the pressure from the spring keeps the door closed i.e. no catch needed.

[Lord Nibbo]

The handles just temporarily screwed on. I shall glue and screw them on after I have done the finish on the outside.

Starting the finish on the inside, three coats of danish oil

[paulchapman]

Looking good, your Lordship Just a quick question about your Veritas scraper plane - do you have both the thick and the thin blade? If so, do you find much difference between the performance of the two (I have just the thin one and I'm quite happy with it but just wondered what people thought of the thick one).

Cheers

Paul

[Lord Nibbo]

paulchapman said:

Looking good, your Lordship Just a quick question about your Veritas scraper plane - do you have both the thick and the thin blade? If so, do you find much difference between the performance of the two (I have just the thin one and I'm quite happy with it but just wondered what people thought of the thick one).

Cheers

Paul

Yes I do have a thick and thin blade Paul, but I've not tried the thick one yet. I'm very happy with the thin one which was in the plane as it was delivered, I'm just lazy not bothering to try the thick blade out. Using the thin blade I did get a bit of chatter passing over very large knots or nasty uneven grain in the walnut but that may be the angle it's set at more than the blade thickness. I suppose the thicker blade would stop or reduce chatter, I don't know. Perhaps I ought try it out

I wonder if David C can say which blade is best?

[paulchapman]

lordnibbo said:

I wonder if David C can say which blade is best?

I think, from what I've read, that David C tends to use the Lie Nielsen scraper planes which only offer a thick blade. What I like about the Veritas is that it offers the ability to bow the blade (which, of course, will only work with a thin blade). I'm still experimenting with mine and it seems to work best with the angle set about the same as it is on the #80 style scraper and the blade bowed a little. Might do a write-up when I've used it a bit more - but so far I'm very happy with it.

Cheers

Paul

[Lord Nibbo]

paulchapman said:

I'm still experimenting with mine and it seems to work best with the angle set about the same as it is on the #80 style scraper and the blade bowed a little. Might do a write-up when I've used it a bit more - but so far I'm very happy with it.

Cheers

Paul

I'll see what angle I have mine set at, at a guess I would say it's somewhere around 85deg - 87deg and like you I do have a little bit of bowing applied.

I know David C is a big friend of Tom Lie-Nielsen but I would imagine setting up a scraper plane would still be the same whether a stanley, LN or Veritas, although being able to apply bend to the blade does add a whole new set of variables.

[paulchapman]

lordnibbo said:

I would imagine setting up a scraper plane would still be the same whether a stanley, LN or Veritas

There are some differences. With the Veritas you can alter the angle of the blade and bow it (if it's the thin blade); with the Lie Nielsen and Stanley large and small scraping planes you can alter the angle but not bow it; and with the Lie Nielsen Cabinet Maker's Scraper (the one like a carriage plane) there is no facility to alter the angle of the blade, so you are dependant entirely on the angle of the hook. But reading stuff from people who have used them, you can get them all to work well.

Cheers

Paul

[Lord Nibbo]

First panel to get a coat of celulose sanding sealer is the back.



Next for the sealer is the end panels



With the handles taken off the top and front get done, I'm quite high on the fumes now So I'll wait till tomorrow before cutting it all back with wire wool or 240 grit paper.

[Lord Nibbo]

It looks quite a bit different now the sanding sealer is rubbed down


A view of the back panel rubbed down.


1st Coat of Danish oil.

[Lord Nibbo]

Five coats of Danish oil on top of the cellulose sanding sealer. Tomorrow it will get a coat of Black Bison paste wax and a buff up then I'll put the handles on and the magnetic left and right door catches, and some felt pads to stand it on.


Then I'll post the final pic of it in the house.

[jfc]

As usual your Lordship , very classy work . I agree that putting on the finish without a mask always gives great results ..... at the time ;D I really like the time you have taken on the back of the unit , it shows a class peice !

[Lord Nibbo]

The Final Pics. It's Finished

With the cupboard finished it is now in situ in my home, and here are the final pics






This pic is taken with no flash to show the real natural colour of the walnut

The Final Pic



FINISHED

[dom]

Well done LN, that looks great.

[engineerone]

very nice, wish i could work as quickly

paul

[jfc]

Very smart ! How did you find the Walnut to work with ? i may have a few doors to make from it but having never worked with it i'd be interested to know .



P.S hope you like your new title ;D

[colincott]

Very nice job your Lordship